45 Jermyn St. - A London Institution in the Heart of St James's

Some London addresses need very little introduction, and Jermyn Street is certainly one of them. Steeped in more than 350 years of history, the street has long been synonymous with a particular kind of London sophistication. Its story began in 1664, when King Charles II granted the land to Henry Jermyn, the Earl of St Albans, to create an elegant neighbourhood close to St James’s Palace. By the late 17th century, the street had begun to establish the character it's still known for today, becoming home to some of London’s most respected tailors, shirtmakers and luxury retailers.

It has also attracted its fair share of famous residents. Sir Isaac Newton lived at No. 88, while the Duke of Marlborough and Emperor Napoleon III were among the notable figures associated with the street.

Walking along Jermyn Street today, that history is still palpable. There's something wonderfully old London about it, from the elegant shopfronts to the sense that generations of Londoners have been coming here for much the same reason: to indulge in the finer things.

And then there is 45 Jermyn St. Opened in 2015 by Fortnum & Mason, the restaurant feels like a natural extension of its surroundings. It has the polish you would expect from one of London’s most celebrated institutions, but without feeling as though it is trying too hard to impress. After all, this is Jermyn Street. The address has been doing that for centuries.

A lesson in old-school glamour

If the history of Jermyn Street sets the tone, the interiors at 45 Jermyn St. continue the conversation.

Designed by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio, the team behind some of London’s most recognisable interiors including Annabel’s and Harry’s Bar, the space has been transformed into something far removed from its former clinical cafeteria-like incarnation. Today, it's a glamorous, distinctly Art Deco-inspired brasserie that feels indulgent and surprisingly comfortable.

The colour palette immediately draws you in. Mint-green panelled walls (a nod to Fortnum & Mason) and pillars are paired with rich polished woods, gleaming brass, and mirrored panels that catch the light and give the room a sense of movement.

At the centre of it all is the sweeping marble bar, punctuated by bright leather stools that add just the right amount of playfulness. Above, an intricate geometric ceiling brings another layer of Art Deco glamour, while spherical pendants, oval shades and softly glowing table lamps create a warmer, more intimate atmosphere as the evening progresses.

It is maximalism, certainly, but the considered kind. The sort that gives you something new to notice each time you look around, while still making you want to settle in and stay awhile.

Dining

At the helm of the kitchen is Sam White, Head Chef and Group Executive Chef for 45 Jermyn St., overseeing a menu that feels quintessentially British while allowing the ingredients to do much of the talking.

We begin with Fortnum’s Blanc de Blanc, a wonderfully fresh, elegant Champagne with delicate notes of peach and apricot, served alongside Fortnum’s Beluga 000 caviar on blini.

The caviar, sourced from Kings Caviar in Belgium, arrives with its own little pearl knife, a charming detail that feels entirely at home here. Delicate, buttery and beautifully briny, the flavour builds gently towards the finish rather than overwhelming the palate.

The blini with a crack of pepper and caviar is, quite frankly, heaven. But it is the tableside scrambled eggs that unexpectedly steal the show.

Prepared in front of you on a traditional trolley, the eggs are thick, creamy and wonderfully fluffy, with just the right amount of seasoning. Served alongside crustless sourdough toast, they are delicious in their own right, but add the Beluga caviar and the dish becomes something else entirely. New potatoes with sour cream and caviar are another revelation, transforming what sounds like a humble combination into my new go-to indulgent snack.

There's something rather charming about this interactive element. In an era where so much dining is designed for the camera, this feels different. It's theatrical without being performative, and the result is food that feels freshly prepared for you rather than simply presented to you.

Three Carlingford Lough oysters follow, served naked with lemon, although they arrive with a vinaigrette and two varieties of Tabasco, including green pepper and the original. Personally, we prefer our oysters without distraction, and these certainly do not need much assistance. Fresh, earthy and satisfyingly substantial, they make for a generous portion, and the quality of the dish is allowed to speak for itself.

Then come the prawns, deshelled and vibrant, topped with diced tomatoes and accompanied by a wonderfully layered sauce of green pepper, smoked chilli oil, garlic oil and sundried tomatoes, finished with basil and caramelised lime. A generous squeeze of the lime brings everything together, lifting the sweetness of the prawns while leaving the gentlest hint of pepper on the finish. It's delicate rather than fiery, and wonderfully fresh.

The wine pairing is equally considered. A Fleurie Beaujolais made from Gamay brings aromas of chocolate, cherry and blackcurrant, with impressive legs and a rounded body that manages to feel full without becoming heavy alongside the seafood. Rather than competing with the prawns, it refreshes the palate while adding another layer of depth.

For the main course, the rib-eye arrives cooked medium rare with béarnaise sauce. It's a beautifully generous cut, somewhere around 450 to 500g, yet surprisingly lean for rib-eye, with just enough fat to keep the meat succulent. The seasoning is restrained, allowing the natural flavour of the beef and the richness of the butter to come through.

The béarnaise is served in traditional silverware, a small but effective nod to the nostalgia and ceremony that runs through the restaurant.

The beef itself is from Cumbria, and this is one dish we would encourage you not to rush. The first few bites are beautifully tender and rich, but as the meat rests and its warmth develops, different flavours begin to emerge. It's the kind of dish that rewards patience, which is perhaps an increasingly rare quality in modern dining. Take your time with it, and you will notice more.

Paired with an Argentinian Malbec, the combination is satisfyingly smooth, with soft red fruit and berry notes complementing the beef. This particular Malbec is surprisingly gentle, without the intensity that can sometimes accompany the grape, making it an easy and polished partner to the rib-eye. A Chianti would also work beautifully here for those wanting something with a little more acidity.

And then, just when the meal begins to feel gloriously indulgent, comes the passion fruit sorbet. Sharp, bright and refreshing, it cleanses the palate beautifully and brings the evening back into balance.

What stands out about 45 Jermyn St. is that there is a genuine sense of theatre in the dining room, but it's never allowed to overshadow the food. From the caviar trolley and silver service to the carefully considered pairings, there's a respect for traditional dining that feels increasingly special. Yet the cooking itself remains fresh, generous and approachable, which is perhaps exactly what you would hope for from a restaurant carrying the Fortnum & Mason name.

For more information, visit HERE

Address: 45 Jermyn St, London SW1Y 6DN

Phone: 020 7205 4545

Imagery courtesy of 45 Jermyn St.

Words by Jheanelle Feanny