Between Heaven and the Dolomites: A Stay at Hubertus

Travel

The Dolomites, often lazily grouped under the umbrella of the Italian Alps, hold a quieter, more elusive appeal. Spanning five provinces, this vast, jagged landscape resists easy definition; it is far more than a winter playground.

Formed over 250 million years ago during the Triassic period, the region carries a sense of deep time that feels almost disorienting. Perhaps that is why those who know it best tend to speak in half-measures, not only out of concern for overtourism and a fragile climate, but from a desire to preserve something that still feels untouched.

So, where to stay? There are many provinces in the Dolomites, and each is home to traditional Alpine hotels or those that sit in between. We chose Hotel Hubertus in Olang, South Tyrol, a stay that delivers the future of modern architecture yet leans into the landscape rather than competing with it. If we were to walk where dinosaurs once roamed, it would be with intention: to disconnect and to immerse ourselves fully in the raw beauty of the Dolomites.

Set in South Tyrol, on the northern edge of this UNESCO-listed region, Hubertus looks out across a dramatic sweep of peaks that shift with the light. We travelled with SkyAlps from London Gatwick, arriving in Bolzano, a small airport that places you within easy reach of the mountains. The flight itself felt notably more intimate, with just 76 seats on board, lending a quieter, more considered start to the journey. Service was efficient and unobtrusive; by the time refreshments were served, we were already beginning our descent into Bolzano.

For more information on SkyAlps, visit HERE

About South Tyrol

This is a region shaped by a complex and often overlooked history of shifting borders, cultural displacement, and post-war change, where language and identity remain closely intertwined. German, Italian, and Ladin are all spoken here, reflecting a territory that has long existed between worlds rather than belonging to one.

Until the end of the First World War, South Tyrol formed part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It was annexed by Italy in 1919, a transition that brought with it decades of enforced Italianisation under Mussolini, during which German place names were changed, and cultural expression was suppressed. The tensions that followed continued well into the 20th century, only easing after greater regional autonomy was granted in the 1970s.

Today, that layered history is quietly visible. Alpine wooden chalets sit alongside Mediterranean touches; menus shift between languages; traditions are preserved with a sense of care rather than performance. There is a subtle dissonance here; you are not entirely in Italy, nor Austria, nor Germany, and it is precisely this convergence of influences that gives South Tyrol its distinct, almost elusive character.

Owned and run by the Gasser family since the 1960s, Hubertus remains deeply personal in its approach. Their philosophy, centred on creating emotion through experience, feels less like a statement and more like something quietly embedded in the way the hotel operates. Guests are welcomed not as passers-through, but as participants; it is not unusual to find the family present, whether in conversation at the bar or hosting a relaxed gathering at their private chalet.

On arrival, the building itself feels almost illusory, an architectural intervention that appears to defy the landscape it sits within. While comparisons might be drawn to the fluid, sculptural work of Zaha Hadid, Hubertus tempers this futurism with something more grounded. Inside, the design softens: warm woods, Alpine references, and a sense of intimacy that recalls the region’s traditional mountain homes.

The hotel’s most striking features lean fully into this tension. The suspended “Heaven & Hell” wellness space plays with perception and elevation, while the heated infinity pool stretches out towards the peaks, dissolving the boundary between architecture and nature. Even the entrance, poised on stilts, sets the tone for what follows: a gradual unravelling from the outside world.

There is a moment, standing here, where the scale and stillness feel almost unreal. Not because it's excessive, but because it is so carefully considered. Hubertus does not need to declare itself; its impact lies in the quiet dissonance between innovation and tradition, and in the way it invites you to pause long enough to notice it.

Rooms & Activities

The rooms at Hubertus are designed with a lightness that feels instinctive to the landscape, airy, pared-back spaces where natural materials soften the architecture’s more dramatic gestures. Floor-to-ceiling views stretch across both the mountains and the slopes, shifting throughout the day with the light.

Details are considered rather than excessive. Some of the suites feature private saunas, complete with essential oils, offering an intimate alternative to the main spa. Bathrooms are generously proportioned, with double-console basins and Balmain toiletries, while select suites extend outwards into private terraces with outdoor hot tubs, spaces that invite you to linger, even in the cold.

Activities here are less about spectacle and more about immersion. Guests can take part in guided snowshoe walks or slower, more atmospheric journeys, such as a horse-drawn carriage ride across a frozen lake. There are curated tastings too, from local cheeses and beers to regional wines, each offering a sense of place without overstatement. For those venturing out, proper alpine attire is essential, and brands like Inuikii, known for their high-fashion aesthetic winter boots, feel particularly suited to the terrain.

We received several compliments on our technical performance boots, which worked just as well in the village as they did on the slopes. Paired with daytime looks, they subtly elevated the usual codes of mountain dressing, sitting somewhere between functionality and fashion, and reflecting the more styled approach to alpine travel that now defines the region.

Dining & Amenities

Dining at Hubertus follows a similarly thoughtful rhythm. Each guest is allocated their own table for the duration of their stay, creating a sense of continuity that feels both personal and quietly luxurious. The food itself leans towards a refined, multi-course experience, rooted in Alpine tradition but presented with a lighter, more contemporary touch.

The spa remains one of the hotel’s defining features, not only for its design but for the way it encourages stillness. Suspended spaces, panoramic views, and the interplay between heat and altitude all contribute to an atmosphere that feels intentionally removed from the outside world.

The spa experience extends beyond its architecture. During my stay, I had a full-body massage that lasted close to three hours; an unhurried treatment designed to release deep-set tension through a carefully blended mix of essential oils. It concluded with a full-body wrap on a hydrotherapy water bed, a moment of stillness that felt both restorative and quietly indulgent.

For those looking to venture beyond the hotel, access is seamless. Guests are provided with a local bus pass, with regular transport connecting them to nearby towns and villages, while the slopes are within easy reach for skiers. Yet what feels most distinctive is how embedded alpine life is here; skiing is not confined to designated runs, but spills into everyday life. You’ll find locals gliding through parks, alongside frozen lakes, even tracing paths near the roadside.

The hotel offers a range of daily wellness and guided experiences, though the most memorable was a visit to the Three Peaks—Tre Cime di Lavaredo—where we paused for coffee, taking in the vast, unbroken stillness of the landscape. It's in moments like these that the scale of the Dolomites truly settles in. Unlike most Alpine destinations, Hubertus offers year round activities, when the snow melts, hiking and exploration unfolds, allowing those who visit an opportunity to immerse themselves in nature's finest views.

Leaving Hubertus feels less like checking out of a hotel and more like easing out of a particular state of mind. The Dolomites do not announce themselves; they unfold slowly, revealing a landscape shaped over millions of years yet experienced in fleeting, intimate moments, a view through a steam-filled window, the hush of snow underfoot, the stars in full display at night and the shifting light across stone.

What stays with you is not just the architecture or the wellness spaces, but the way everything is designed to blur edges: between inside and out, movement and stillness, tradition and innovation. There's a sense here that luxury is not defined by excess, but by attention and by how carefully space, time, and experience are held.

In a world that often moves too quickly to notice detail, Hubertus offers something quieter. A place where you are encouraged to slow down, look outwards, and let the scale of the landscape recalibrate your own.

Rates start from €278 / approx. £252 per person per night with the ¾ board included (breakfast, afternoon snack and dinner). Minimum 2-5 night stay required. 

For more information, visit HERE

Photography courtesy of Hubertus

Words by Jheanelle Feanny