Colonel Saab: Where Modern London Meets the Maharajas
- Vingt Sept
- Jul 31
- 4 min read
If you consider yourself a seasoned Londoner, you’ll know that the real buzz around Indian dining doesn’t orbit Dishoom anymore. Colonel Saab has quietly but assuredly claimed the crown. Just minutes from its sister location in Covent Garden, its Trafalgar Square flagship has become a magnet not only for local gourmands but for discerning international travellers. Case in point: one of our hotel clients, a frequent flier from Mexico, couldn’t stop waxing lyrical about it, calling it one of the top food moments of their London itinerary.
Word travels fast when it’s earned, not engineered. At Colonel Saab, that currency of praise extends from loyal diners to global VIPs. The restaurant has played host to an illustrious guest list, including Nobel laureate Malala Yousafzai, Bollywood legends Javed Akhtar and Shabana Azmi, and cinematic icon Jackie Chan.
But Colonel Saab isn’t just another pretty dining room with star-studded clout. Each dish is crafted as a love letter to the Indian subcontinent, offering a culinary journey designed to transport guests to the royal courts of yesteryear. The atmosphere hums with quiet opulence, echoing the regal world of Maharajas and Maharajadhirajas, where hospitality was a sacred art form and every meal told a story.
Colonel Saab is the passion project of hotelier and entrepreneur Roop Partap Choudhary, a man with hospitality in his blood and stories stitched into every corner of his restaurant. While the Holborn outpost has long been a favourite among in-the-know Londoners, it is the newer, grander location in Trafalgar Square, opened 18 months ago, that has become the crown jewel. Here, a sleek bar lounge greets guests on arrival, giving way to a series of opulent dining rooms and elegant private spaces.
But this is not just a restaurant. It is a tribute, an evocative homage to Choudhary’s parents, Colonel Manbeer and Mrs. Binny Choudhary, whose travels across India inspired every detail, from the menu to the walls themselves. The narrative is deeply personal. Sepia-toned photographs of the couple, family portraits, and wartime memories form a kind of living album. Love letters, aged and delicately enclosed in their original envelopes, are displayed in glass cases like museum artefacts. Trinkets exchanged across distances during Colonel Saab’s army postings tell a quieter story of romance and resilience. In pride of place sits the Colonel’s own original army uniform.
In essence, this is more than a love letter to India. It is a tactile, emotional celebration of heritage that invites diners to experience India not only through flavour but through memory, emotion, and storytelling.
Design & Interiors
Every inch of Colonel Saab is layered with intention. At once theatrical and intimate, the décor walks the line between museum and palace, creating an immersive sensory landscape curated to reflect India’s cultural mosaic. Gilded frames, antique mirrors, ornate woodwork, and an extraordinary collection of Indian artefacts create an atmosphere that feels plucked from another century.
Personal mementoes collected over a lifetime of family travels sit alongside traditional craftsmanship and luxurious flourishes. Each dining space tells its own story, encouraging guests to linger not just over their food, but in the ambience that surrounds them.
Dining
Colonel Saab’s menu strikes a balance between regional authenticity and bold creativity, with recent additions offering a deeper dive into the lesser-known flavours of India. We began with the small plates—standouts included the Kori Kempu, a Mangalorean-style fried chicken supreme paired with crispy rice noodles and chilli mayo. It was a flavour-packed introduction, and an instant favourite.
From the newly launched menu, the Bhatti ka Murgh emerged as the showstopper: a tender, slow-cooked free-range half chicken marinated for 48 hours and served on a bed of house-made kasundi sauce, enriched with saffron. This was a harmonious blend of influences from North East India and Kolkata, and easily the star of the evening.
The Prawn Chimichurri brought a playful twist—grilled spiced black tiger prawns dressed in chimichurri, balanced with chaat masala and pickled onions. For mains, we naturally gravitated to the Kolhapuri Lamb Chops. Every Indian restaurant in London has its take on this dish, but Colonel Saab’s version—spice-rubbed, flame-grilled and served with lime-chilli sauce and a side salad—was a clear winner.
To end, the Pineapple Jalebi from the dessert menu was a modern reimagining of tradition. Rabri Chantilly cream, crisp tuile topping, pistachio-infused oil and pistachio kulfi came together with a pineapple jalebi twist, delivering layered texture and indulgent sweetness.
The drinks menu is equally considered. While we started with a sparkling wine from the extensive selection, the house cocktails offered both flair and depth. Two signatures stood out: Mr Puri, made with Desi Daru vodka, turmeric, lime, agave, and ginger beer; and the Lychee Wine, both vibrant in flavour and memorable in presentation.
The Experience
To dine at Colonel Saab is to step into a world shaped by memory, elevated by artistry, and defined by extraordinary hospitality. Draped velvet curtains soften the walls. Framed portraits, old love letters, and family heirlooms invite quiet moments of reflection. The Trafalgar Square location in particular delivers a sense of occasion. Its sleek bar lounge transitions into a regal dining room bathed in the glow of Firozabad chandeliers, each one hand-blown and glittering like jewellery.
Private dining rooms offer discretion without compromising on drama, ideal for celebrations, corporate affairs, or simply those who prefer to dine behind closed doors. It is storytelling through space, where history and hospitality meet in harmony.
For more information, visit HERE
Colonel Saab Trafalgar Square
Address: 40, 42 William IV St, London WC2N 4DD
Phone: 020 8016 6800
Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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