From the Riviera to the Alps: A Summer in St. Moritz

Travel & Lifestyle

St. Moritz may be best known for its snow-dusted glamour and winter sports pedigree, but summer in this Alpine retreat reveals an entirely different kind of magic. Far from hibernating, the town transforms into a haven for adventure, wellbeing, and slow luxury once the snow melts. This season, we traded the coastal buzz of St. Tropez for the cool serenity of St. Moritz — and it’s safe to say, we’re converted.

History of St Moritz

Tucked in the heart of Switzerland, yet enviably close to the borders of France and Italy, St. Moritz is more than just a winter postcard. Its story began in 1864 with a gamble that would rewrite tourism in the Alps. Hotelier Johannes Badrutt, convinced of the region’s year-round beauty, dared his English summer guests to return in winter. If they didn’t enjoy it, he promised to cover their expenses. They did, and loved it. That one wager sparked the dawn of alpine winter tourism and cemented St. Moritz’s status as the birthplace of snow-season luxury.

Fast forward to today, and the town’s population of just under 5,000 welcomes more than 660,000 visitors annually. While ski culture remains its lifeblood, St. Moritz continues to evolve, attracting discerning travellers with its quietly luxurious aesthetic, world-class gastronomy, and a line-up of five-star hotels as distinctive as the landscape.

Its year-round calendar is another draw. The British Classic Car Meeting each summer turns the cobbled streets into a showcase of automotive heritage, from vintage Bugattis to gleaming Rolls-Royces. In winter, the frozen lake becomes the unlikely stage for The Snow Polo World Cup, the only high-goal polo tournament played on ice.

Beyond the polished surface of seasonal events lies a rich cultural undercurrent. St. Moritz has long been a playground for dynasties and tastemakers. The Gucci family once called it home, and it is not uncommon to spot the Prada family helicopter cutting across the alpine skyline en route to Milan. Gunther Sachs, industrial heir, art collector, and famed European playboy, lived here for decades. He is rumoured to have helped ignite the local art scene, championing a then-emerging Andy Warhol. Sachs not only collected Warhol’s work for his lakeside apartment but also orchestrated the artist’s first major European exhibition in Hamburg in 1972.

With its deep-set glamour, old-world charm, and enduring allure, St. Moritz continues to offer more than a change in season. It promises a change in perspective.

Getting There

SWISS Airlines, known for running airspace like a smooth ship, is the go-to for getting to Geneva. With numerous daily flights and a comfortable journey, by the time you've unbuckled the seatbelt, the sign comes back on for landing.

The Swiss are known for precision, and there are no failures when it comes to getting to St. Moritz or anywhere in Europe; in fact, thanks to their comfortable and efficient rail system. Having used the system to get to Verbier, we knew what to expect, but this time with a little more knowledge on our side, we were surprised to see the departure boards lit with European destinations such as Milan (a mere four-hour commute) or Paris (a swift three-hour train). It made things real, knowing that it is quicker to cross countries in Switzerland than it is to take a train from London to Edinburgh.

We took the train to St. Moritz, which was swift and allowed money-can’t-buy vistas en route. Too great to capture in a picture, the journey through first class allowed us to transition from the bustle of city life and understand how a commute such as this — displaying pine trees, mountains and aquamarine blue lakes — can calm the mind. The carriage itself was exceptionally comfortable, with wide seats, generous legroom and panoramic windows that invited you to slow down and sink into the beauty beyond the glass.

For more information, visit Travel Switzerland & SWISS

Where to stay

Although there are many five-star retreats in St Moritz, there is one hotel that is doing something a little different - Grace La Margna. Not only is the property one of the few open all year round, but they are breaking the rules of tradition by bringing fun, eccentricity and luxury together in a way that we have never experienced.

This is an establishment that defines the word 'details'. Every corner of the hotel has been purposefully thought out to inspire their guests, whether through their artwork, curated selection of luxury books from Assouline collectables in the cigar room, the holiday collection in the spa and rooms, or the Marriage Freres teas on display. Grace La Margna has thought of it all.

Interiors & Rooms

Grace La Margna St. Moritz artfully combines modern elegance with traditional Alpine architecture. The hotel features two wings: the historic La Margna wing, reflecting Engadin Art Nouveau heritage, and the Grace wing, showcasing a sleek, contemporary Alpine style that blends seamlessly with the landscape.

The new wing, clad in beige Moleanos limestone, connects to the historic side via a winter terrace, harmonising old and new.

The 74 rooms and suites each offer a unique identity. La Margna’s spaces feature exposed timber beams, Alpine furnishings, faux fur Swiss blankets, and Aesop toiletries, combining traditional charm with modern luxury. The Grace wing uses neutral tones, natural materials, and soft textures, with some suites boasting terraces and panoramic mountain views. The penthouse includes a private outdoor space overlooking the peaks.

Bespoke touches such as jars of roasted apples, bespoke Grace La Margna sweet treat boxes, and curated Assouline coffee table books enrich the experience. Bathrooms with deep soaking tubs and rainfall showers invite relaxation after days spent exploring or shopping. Whether in the historic or modern wing, every detail reflects thoughtful, quiet indulgence.

Amenities & Spa

Grace La Margna’s spa is a serene retreat designed to soothe the body and mind. Treatments use luxurious products, ensuring every massage is both relaxing and rejuvenating. Facilities include steam rooms and a hydropool, alongside a spacious 20-metre swimming pool that offers stunning views of the lake. The pool is accessible throughout the day, allowing guests to swim at their leisure.

After treatments, the post-spa relaxation room invites guests to unwind by a cosy fireplace. This space extends to a private terrace, perfect for sunbathing or simply enjoying the crisp mountain air. Various saunas and steam baths provide further options for restoring calm and balance.

For families, the hotel offers a games room and a dedicated kids’ club, ensuring that younger guests have engaging activities while adults enjoy the tranquillity of the spa or the elegance of the hotel’s surroundings.

Dining

Dining at Grace La Margna is an experience that delights both the palate and the eye. The hotel’s restaurant, The View, perfectly complements the circular architecture of the building, offering guests breathtaking panoramic vistas as they enjoy their meal.

A highlight was the Gusbourne wine tasting, where exceptional wines were paired in unexpected yet exquisite harmony with dishes like chicken nuggets and caviar, as well as a classic beef Wellington.

Cocktails at No5 take a mystical turn with the Tarot card menu, and we chose “The World,” a drink as intriguing as it was delicious. For those seeking something truly special, the vintage Louis XIII Rémy Martin cognac served in a crystal glass was a standout – a unique collaboration with the hotel that elevated the experience.

Adding to the indulgence, the wine cellar is on full display, showcasing an impressive collection of fine wines and champagnes that is sure to impress even the most discerning connoisseurs.

Activities

Summer in St. Moritz offers far more than just mountain views. It’s a playground for the discerning traveller, where culture, sport and taste intersect in the most effortless of ways. Our itinerary was curated to showcase just that, beginning with a breezy sailing experience across the glassy expanse of Lake St. Moritz. The wind cooperated just enough to keep things elegant, and not once did we feel we were working for the view. Afterwards, we ventured high into the hills for lunch at Alpschaukäserei, a charming alpine cheese farm offering a window into traditional Swiss cheesemaking. Surrounded by wildflowers and cowbells, it was pastoral theatre at its finest, and yes, the fondue was as good as you’re imagining.

We also hopped on e-bikes for a scenic glide through nature, stopping for a quiet picnic by one of the region’s secluded lakes. There’s a stillness here that’s hard to articulate, the kind that forces your shoulders to drop and your breath to deepen. On another day, we unwound with a proper spa afternoon, the kind that resets your circadian rhythm and reminds you how restorative fresh air and warm water can be.

Back in town, a guided walking tour introduced us to the heart of St. Moritz. It’s not just postcard-perfect, it’s a living design museum. From the iconic St. Moritz logo (yes, it’s copyrighted) to elegant landmarks and five-star hotels, the town exudes a quiet sense of excellence. Boutiques by Valentino, Bulgari, Loro Piana, Hermès and Louis Vuitton sit alongside independent family-run shops and rare gems like the Monocle café, proof that St. Moritz understands curation better than most.

Caviar House was a standout, offering not just top-tier caviar but a treasure trove of fine teas and rare coffees. We spotted the elusive Jamaican Blue Mountain roast, a hard-to-come-by roast as indulgent as it is rare.

St. Moritz isn’t just a resort, it’s a state of mind. From architecture to hospitality, everything feels designed for the tastemaker. Even Chesa Futura, the round futuristic building by Norman Foster (yes, the mind behind London’s Gherkin), fits seamlessly into the alpine aesthetic with its larch-clad curves and organic form. Known affectionately as the “house of the future,” it speaks volumes about what St. Moritz does best: blending tradition with vision.

Whether you seek serene alpine beauty, refined luxury, or a taste of culture and adventure, St. Moritz in the warmer months reveals a timeless charm that stays with you long after you’ve left its crisp mountain air behind.

For more information, visit HERE

GRACE LA MARGNA ST MORITZ, an SLH Hotel

Address: Via Serlas 5, 7500 St. Moritz, Switzerland

Phone: +41 81 832 22 10

Words by Jheanelle Feanny