LABOMBE BY TRIVET: A New Chapter for a London Icon

Lifestyle

Set within COMO Metropolitan London on Old Park Lane, Labombe by Trivet occupies an address with more than a little history. The restaurant has taken over the former Met Bar, once one of Mayfair’s most notorious late-night haunts and a defining part of London’s 90s social scene. Today, the energy is considerably more refined, but there is still something rather exciting about dining in a space that has already played its part in London nightlife.

The name Labombe has its own charming story. Long before the restaurant existed, Jonny Lake came up with the name as a schoolboy in Canada, when he was asked to create a fictional restaurant for a class project. Decades later, after rediscovering the original school assignment, the idea resurfaced and eventually became a Monday-night residency at Trivet before finding a permanent home in Mayfair.

Now, alongside Master Sommelier Isa Bal (who has also been recognised with a Michelin Sommelier Award), Lake has turned that childhood idea into something considerably more ambitious.

Labombe brings together the culinary philosophy behind their two-Michelin-starred Trivet with a more intimate and relaxed setting overlooking Hyde Park, creating a space where exceptional food and wine can be enjoyed without the formality that can sometimes come with fine dining. It feels like somewhere you can settle in, take your time and enjoy the conversation as much as what is on the table.

Dining

We start with a glass of Charles Heidsieck Rosé, which feels like a rather good indication of what is to come. This is not a restaurant where wine is treated as an afterthought. We are looked after by a female sommelier working under the restaurant’s award-winning wine team, and having previously experienced some spectacular vintage Dom Pérignon at Trivet in London Bridge, we already knew we were in for something special. The Charles Heidsieck is beautifully fresh with delicate red-fruit notes, elegant without being too sweet and with enough complexity to make it feel like an occasion rather than simply the first drink of the evening.

For those who prefer a cocktail, the Labombe Spritz, made with Forgotten Aperitivo, Chartreuse Gentian and sparkling wine, is a sophisticated alternative, while the Senhor Gomes Porto Tónico combines Niepoort 10 Year Old White Port with tonic, tonic bean and lemon. Both are far removed from the overly sweet cocktails that can sometimes arrive before dinner and instead have the bitterness, freshness and complexity to wake up the palate.

The sea bass crudo has us immediately reaching for another bite. Three beautifully presented fillets arrive with orange ponzu, anchovy garum, olive oil and a crunchy garnish. The fish is incredibly fresh and delicate, while the orange ponzu provides just enough acidity to lift it without drowning the sea bass. The anchovy garum adds a gentle savoury depth, bringing everything together without taking over. This is easily our favourite dish of the evening.

The Wagyu cecina is another highlight; the thinly sliced Spanish smoked and cured Wagyu is served with pickled Padrón peppers. The meat is rich and intensely savoury, while the sharpness of the peppers cuts beautifully through it. Even the sourdough makes an impression, arriving with a generous amount of butter covered in vibrant orange herbs. Whipped until almost cloud-like, it needs little more than a pinch of salt to become completely addictive.

For the mains, we go for the Iberico pork chop and onglet, two cuts that could not be more different but both reward good cooking. The Iberico is wonderfully rich and juicy, with that beautiful marbling the breed is known for, while the onglet has the deeper, more mineral character that makes this particular cut of beef such a favourite. Neither dish feels overworked, and the quality of the meat is allowed to speak, which is exactly how it should be.

Before dessert, we are offered another Champagne, Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blancs. The bottle itself catches our attention, etched with an illustration of the family château, a lovely detail that hints at the history behind the house. Pierre Moncuit is a family-run Champagne producer based in Mesnil-sur-Oger, with a long-standing reputation for Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs. It's elegant, fresh and beautifully suited to this point in the meal. By now, the pattern is clear: Labombe doesn't merely serve wine alongside its food. It understands how the right glass can change the way you experience what is on the plate.

Dessert

Dessert is deliberately light, which feels like the right decision after such a beautifully paced meal. We finish with the white peach and mountain mint sorbet, a refreshing combination that is fragrant without becoming overly sweet. The peach brings a gentle, almost floral sweetness, while the mountain mint gives the finish a coolness that resets the palate. It's a simple ending, but an effective one.

To accompany it, we are offered a glass of Contero Brachetto d'Acqui, a lightly sparkling red dessert wine from Piedmont made from Brachetto grapes. Fragrant and gently sweet, with notes of ripe berries and rose, it's a lovely final indulgence without feeling too heavy.

The verdict

It's easy to understand why Labombe by Trivet has earned its Michelin star. Yes, the cooking is accomplished, the produce is exceptional, and the wine list is clearly one of the restaurant’s great strengths, but what stays with us is how naturally everything comes together. Nothing feels like it's there simply to demonstrate technique. The food is considered but still generous, the room is intimate without feeling formal, and the open kitchen gives the experience a sense of connection to the dishes served.

And then there is the service. Our evening was made memorable by the warmth of the team, who manage to be knowledgeable without ever becoming overbearing.

Our female sommelier was exceptional, guiding us through the wine list with confidence and genuine enthusiasm. There's no sense of being lectured about wine, only encouraged to explore it, which makes a considerable difference.

Labombe has the pedigree of Trivet and now the Michelin recognition to match, but it does not feel as though it is resting on either. There is a warmth here that makes the experience feel personal, from the chefs working visibly in the open kitchen to the team who genuinely seem to want you to have a great evening.

For more information, visit HERE

Address: 19 Old Park Ln, London W1K 1LB

Phone: 020 7447 3334

Imagery courtesy of Labombe by Trivet

Words by Jheanelle Feanny