As the focus of Schiaparelli's haute couture collection shifts its gaze to the attendees, we delve into the captivating fascination both on and off the catwalk at the eponymous show. For his Spring/Summer 2024 haute couture collection, Daniel Roseberry draws inspiration from an unlikely source—Elsa Schiaparelli's uncle Giovanni, a groundbreaking astronomer renowned for his observations of Mars, and Roseberry's Texan heritage.
The infusion of scientific curiosity and Texan flair culminates in a collection that bridges the realms of fashion, art and Astronomy. Roseberry skillfully navigates the Maison's heritage while infusing it with his distinct design language, seamlessly bringing Schiaparelli into the 21st century. The tensions between digital and physical, real and artificial, and human and alien fuel Roseberry's creative journey as he embarks on his latest couture collection.
Titled "Schiaparalien," the show explores the hypothetical realm of couture on Mars. Roseberry melds Elsa Schiaparelli's celestial obsessions with her iconic house codes, intertwining them with Texan elements such as belt buckles, bandannas, and bolero jackets. Departing from last season's vibrant palette, Roseberry opts for a monochromatic scheme, allowing the materials and craftsmanship to shine and take centre stage.
The runway comes alive with asymmetrical jackets adorned with bandana detailing and rich velvet, embracing the body in innovative and unconventional ways. Sculpted breastplates in lace and velvet add a touch of ethereal allure, rising to the models' temples with mesmerising grace. Karlie Kloss graced the runway in a decadent creation, her hypnotic walk accompanied by the swish of silk pearls and chenille twill threads.
Some of the iconic looks from the attendees / Photographer Moïse Mbarga-Abega
Turning our attention to the VIPs, or the Frow, Zendaya made a striking entrance with a micro-fringe and a dramatic black gown featuring a statement-making bustle. Hunter Schafer exuded elegance in a fitted black dress adorned with a 3D floral necklace and statement heels. Jennifer Lopez captivated cameras in a white textured coat paired with Schiaparelli's iconic eyewear, a testament to the Maison's enduring allure.
Yet, stealing the spotlight, intentional or not, is a cyborg infant carried along the catwalk, accompanied by "The Mother"—a dress adorned with antiquated relics of two decades past. As Schiaparelli blurs the lines between fantasy and reality, tradition and innovation, the Spring/Summer 2024 collection emerges as a testament to Daniel Roseberry's visionary prowess and the enduring legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli.
VIP Photography Moïse Mbarga-Abega
Words by Jheanelle Feanny