A Living Canvas in Naples: Atelier Inès Arts & Suites, Rione Sanità
- Vingt Sept
- Jul 15
- 5 min read
Naples has always been a city of dualities, ancient and modern, sacred and profane, chaos and beauty in a tightly woven knot. I arrived seeking something deeper than the usual postcard fare. Most people, when heading to Naples, are gently nudged toward the polished charm of Chiaia or the postcard-perfect corners of the Centro Storico. And it’s easy to see why. Both neighbourhoods promise classic Neapolitan beauty with easy access to historic sites, stylish boutiques, and gelato on every corner. But I had something different in mind.
I was on a mission to discover the city’s quieter treasures, those tucked behind the folds of guidebooks, where culture isn’t curated but lived. That’s how I found myself in Rione Sanità, a neighbourhood that translates poetically to “the health quarter.” The name alone was enough to intrigue me, ironic, perhaps, given its once-troubled reputation, but also hinting at the soulful restoration happening there.
Rione Sanità is unlike anywhere else in Naples, and indeed, unlike anywhere else in Italy. It’s a district where life bursts out from behind every shuttered window, where street altars stand like miniature chapels on every corner, and where ancient catacombs rest quietly beneath the chaos of scooters and the scent of frying sfogliatella. Once a royal gateway and later the birthplace of Italy’s most beloved comedian, Totò, Sanità is a living, breathing paradox, sacred and profane, old and defiantly new.
I wanted to explore the heartbeat of the city, the textures that reveal themselves only when you stray from the predictable path. That search led me not only to one of Naples’ most misunderstood yet richly layered neighbourhoods, but to a sanctuary of imagination known as Atelier Inès Arts & Suites.
Rione Sanità: A District of Ghosts and Light
To understand Atelier Inès is to understand where it lives. Rione Sanità is built atop the ancient catacombs of San Gennaro and San Gaudioso, forming a sacred foundation, with spaces of quiet spirituality beneath the dizzying life above.
Once a noble retreat for Neapolitan aristocracy in the 16th century, Sanità later bore witness to the birth of Totò, Italy’s beloved ‘Prince of Laughter.’ His presence still dances through the walls in murals and in memory. But the true spirit of this district is found in its resilience. Once defined by hardship, today it hums with grassroots revival. Street altars lovingly maintained by residents catch the sunlight. Voices of children echo from balconies. Local cooperatives have brought new life to its buried treasures, helping Sanità reclaim its place as a cultural epicentre.
Here, contradictions coexist: scooters whirr past Baroque façades, sacred statues peer out from graffiti-stained alleyways, and fishmongers shout beneath laundry-lined skies. Rione Sanità is not curated, it is alive.
Atelier Inès: More Than a Place to Stay
Stepping into Atelier Inès Arts & Suites is like entering a dream carefully sculpted from history and heart. There is no check-in desk, no polished lobby or impersonal concierge. Instead, you arrive in a gallery — living, breathing, and curated — where creativity flows in every direction.
The site was once an open-air theatre, later the family home of the Oste dynasty. Since 1980, it has housed the artistic legacy of Annibale Oste, a sculptor, poet, and visionary who transformed material into myth. Today, his spirit lives on through Vincenzo, his son, and Inès, a jewellery designer of immense warmth and talent. Together, they have built not just a hotel, but a living atelier.
An Artistic Sanctuary
Each suite is generous in size and spirit. There are no rooms here, only suites, and not one is like another. The furniture is bespoke, some crafted by Vincenzo, others by Inès or her father-in-law. The chair in my suite was a piece of art made by Vincenzo himself. Every object, from door handles to chandeliers, has been considered. The art above the bed has a story. The bathroom features a grand rainfall shower, double console sinks, and a wardrobe reminiscent of the one in Narnia — magical, mysterious, and surprisingly functional.
In the entrance, an intricate chandelier greets you. Step further and you’ll discover a serene garden with a resin fountain, a jewellery boutique, a working gallery, and workshops where artists and artisans share their craft. Atelier Inès is not a hotel. It is a world, a creative retreat, and a sanctuary all at once. Think of it as a living canvas, or perhaps a Neapolitan Willy Wonka’s factory for artists and the creatively inclined.
Interior Design and Soulful Detail
The interiors feel intuitive, as if sculpted by memory and instinct rather than trend. Cement steps feature cast iron mini risers, a tiny detail, but deeply intentional. The walls are adorned with both collected and commissioned art. There is a Nespresso machine, yes, but also museum-worthy light fittings and scent trails that make even an early morning feel transportive.
The balconies are wide and filled with light. The linens are crisp. The toiletries are exceptional. Children are not only welcome but embraced. Atelier Inès is not aiming to exclude or impress; it simply wants to express.
A Community Devotion
What sets this place apart is its sense of devotion to art, to craftsmanship, to the community it belongs to. Inès herself offers jewellery classes. Guests can watch artists at work. Breakfast is served on hand-painted plates, each one a small celebration. Conversations flow as easily as the coffee. No moment is wasted. Nothing is without care.
They are still building an archive of Annibale Oste’s work, a task so monumental it may take a lifetime. But that’s the magic here. You could stay a week, a month, or a year and still discover something new. A corner of sculpture you hadn’t noticed. A hidden door. A new story.
Neighbourhood Notes
Just outside the door, Rione Sanità waits. Visit the catacombs. Wander past Madonnelle shrines. Sip espresso with locals. The area is dense with history, yet vibrantly current. You are both guest and participant in a living neighbourhood, one that is as complex and compelling as any city in Europe.
The Final Word
Atelier Inès Arts & Suites is more than a place to rest your head; it is a place to wake up. A storybook of Naples written in iron, marble, and love. Whether you're an artist, a thinker, a dreamer, or simply someone curious to go beyond the surface, this sanctuary in Rione Sanità will stay with you long after you leave.
For more information visit HERE
Atelier Inès Arts & Suites
Address: Via dei Cristallini, 138, 80137 Napoli NA, Italy
Phone: +39 349 443 3422
Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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