The Hidden Gems of Naples
- Vingt Sept
- Jul 9
- 8 min read
Updated: Jul 18
Naples has always intrigued me, perhaps because no two people ever describe it the same way. So this year, I set off to discover my own version of Italy’s most talked-about city, in search of hidden gems and with plans to venture further afield.
You’re probably wondering where the fascination began. It all started in the summer of 2024. I had just wrapped an intense few days covering the Cannes Lions Festival and, as I do every year, left the bustle of La Croisette in search of the Italian landscape. Last year’s trip took me to Rome, but I arrived there via Naples. An Italian colleague had shared one of travel’s best-kept secrets: fly to Naples, then take the high-speed train to Rome. He promised the journey would offer unforgettable views. I wasn’t convinced until I did exactly that. Departing from Piazza Garibaldi, I watched the rolling hills flash past as the train curved north, and to my surprise, it was everything he had described and more.
What made it even more memorable was the timing. My arrival coincided with the Strawberry Moon, also known as the Harvest Moon. As the pink-hued moon rose over the hills and cast a glow across the landscape, it felt like a spiritual moment—a quiet, cinematic welcome to a part of Italy that so often defies expectation. It felt like a shame that my first encounter with Naples ended with that train ride, but this time I was determined to stay. Armed with nothing but a backpack, a carry-on, and a phone, I set out full of excitement - and just a little fear.
Blacklane Chauffeurs
With four days of travel ahead, I set my out-of-office and headed to the airport for a 7 am flight. I booked Blacklane, my go-to for smooth starts, and decided to try their First Class service this time.
Usually, I pick Business Class, reliable and polished, but when my driver Valentin arrived in a sleek BMW i7 and asked if I wanted the VIP airport entrance, I realised this ride was something else. I didn’t know Stansted had a VIP terminal; I’d only heard of Heathrow’s King’s Wing. The offer was a delightful surprise.
The journey felt otherworldly. Valentin showed me the car’s features: a roof-mounted flat-screen TV, personalised lighting, refreshments, and controls to heat the butter-soft leather seats, adjust the massage settings, and decompress before the usual airport rituals.
The flight was as smooth as my Blacklane ride. I could’ve booked another car straight to Ischia, but reminded myself why I came: to discover hidden gems authentically. So I took the Alibus shuttle to Naples port. As Anthony Hopkins says in Meet Joe Black, “To make the journey and not fall deeply in love, well, you haven’t lived a life at all. But you have to try, because if you haven’t tried, you haven’t lived.”
Ischia
Arrival at the port was swift, the Tyrrhenian Sea unfolded in a stunning display of colour and calm. Naples port surprised me with its modern, almost museum-like atmosphere, far from the usual chaotic bustle. Buying my Hydrofoil Ferry ticket was seamless, and soon I was aboard, ready to soak in the scenery.
During the crossing, I tried my first affogato, a perfect mix of gelato and espresso, a refreshing twist on iced coffee that I hope the UK embraces soon. Savouring its unique flavours and the passing coastline, I pictured my best friends quietly cheering this step into independence. Despite language barriers and dubious map skills, I was determined to explore authentically, relying on my travel editing experience.
Arriving in Ischia, the rugged volcanic cliffs and lush greenery cascading to the Tyrrhenian’s sparkling waters immediately captivated me. The island’s jagged rocks and fertile hills, dotted with colourful houses and vineyards, tell its story. Founded by Greeks in the 8th century BC as Pithecusae, the area’s first Greek settlement, it boasts natural thermal springs famed since Roman times for their healing powers. Now it was time to enjoy the island’s beauty at the San Montano Hotel, known for its rich history, extraordinary views, and many thermal pools.
The hotel blends relaxation with stunning surroundings, making it the perfect base to explore this quietly captivating island.
Where to Stay and Why – San Montano Resort & Spa
Set high above the Bay of San Montano, this five-star hideaway is one of Ischia’s best-kept secrets. Unlike the island’s larger resorts, it offers space, seclusion, and an authentic sense of place.
With a limited number of rooms and a staff made up entirely of Ischian locals, the experience feels personal and grounded. Guests are welcomed by name, and the team’s insider knowledge adds warmth and depth.
The resort’s crown jewel is its natural thermal offering: eleven pools fed by mineral-rich volcanic springs, known to soothe tension and support wellbeing. The H2O complex features five panoramic tubs overlooking Lacco Ameno harbour, Procida, and the Bay of Naples.
Terraced gardens and shaded paths invite slow living, and as dusk falls, a pianist plays on the terrace while the sea turns gold.
San Montano is more than a hotel; it’s a serene retreat shaped by nature, wellness, and quiet luxury.
Things to Do – Thermal Spas, Gardens and Sunset Spots
Negombo Thermal Park – €50
In San Montano Bay, this lush park features pools at varied temperatures, hydrotherapy waterfalls, a Turkish bath, a Kneipp circuit (18°–38°C), and a private beach.
Giardini Poseidon Terme – €49
Ischia’s largest thermal complex on the west coast, with 20+ thermal and seawater pools, a steam grotto, and ocean views warmed by volcanic heat.
Giardini La Mortella – €12
Private botanical garden created in the 1950s by Susana Walton, featuring exotic plants, ponds, shaded paths, and musical history.
Forio’s Sunset Viewpoint
A 20-minute train or drive to Forio offers stunning sunset views from Chiesa del Soccorso. Watch for the rare green ray on clear nights.
Sorgeto Hot Springs – Free (€1 for mud mask)
Natural thermal springs bubble into the sea. Alternate hot and cold baths; locals sell handmade mud masks.
Bars – Via Porto
Relax at Ischia Porto’s laid-back bars:
Studio 51 – From 1 pm
Drink’t n Drank’t – From 6 pm
Il Cappuccino – From 6 pm
Sorrento
After Ischia, I made my way to Sorrento via Naples. Sorrento is a sun-drenched jewel perched above the Bay of Naples, where lemon trees perfume the air and the sea glows in shades of deep azure.
Following a quick train from the Piazza Garibaldi to one of Italy's most historic destinations, it was clear why this was a hidden gem. Sorrento has long served as a romantic stop on the Grand Tour, but beneath its postcard beauty lies a rich, rooted culture that feels both lived-in and quietly luxurious.
Where to Stay and Why – Hotel Mediterraneo Sorrento
This family-run clifftop escape delivers the kind of charm you hope for in Sorrento, elegant yet welcoming, with panoramic views that rival anything in the Amalfi. The décor is contemporary cosmopolitan yet coastal, with gardens framed by lemon yellow accents and terraces that gaze over the Gulf of Naples. What makes Hotel Mediterraneo truly special is its rooftop—Vista Sky Bar—a spot for an aperitivo as the sun slips into the sea, with DJ sets and cocktails that feel more private villa than hotel lounge.
Things to Do – Roman Swims, Gardens, and Lemon Groves
Bagni Regina Giovanna – Swim in the ruins of an ancient Roman villa tucked into a rocky cove. It’s free to visit and still feels like a local secret, especially in the early morning.
Ninfeo di Sorrento – A nymphaeum used by Romans for worship, this site allows for wild swimming in a forgotten historical setting—magical and atmospheric.
Vallone dei Mulini – A haunting gorge filled with ruins of old flour mills now claimed by nature. Best viewed from the footbridge above.
Basilica of Sant’Antonino, Correale Museum, Piazza Tasso, and Corso Italia – These landmarks offer a glimpse into the town’s spiritual and artistic past.
Via San Cesareo – The town’s beating heart. Shop for local crafts, handmade sandals, and lemon-infused everything.
I Giardini di Cataldo – A lemon grove and liqueur distillery in the centre of town. It’s the kind of spot you’ll remember years later, with its syrupy limoncello and peaceful garden.
Beaches
For a Mediterranean dip, explore:
Marina Grande
Marina Piccola
Bagni Regina Giovanna
Puolo, Nerano, and Conca Azzurra – all a short drive away and perfect for secluded swims.
Bars & Rooftops
Sorrento does rooftops well. Try:
Vista Sky Bar at Hotel Mediterraneo - for the best sunsets and vibe
Bar Tasso (classic people-watching)
La Pergola (lush garden setting)
Bar Bellevista, La Minervetta, Excelsior Vittoria, and Bellevue Syrene for elevated sundowners
Da Giniello – no-frills, local-approved
Secret Restaurants
Ristorante O’Parucchiano – A hidden citrus garden where guests dine beneath lemon trees.
The Chef’s Table – No menu, no prices. Eat what the chef prepares and pay what you think it’s worth
Naples
Naples is the opposite of curated. It’s vibrant, chaotic, and unapologetically alive. It resists tidiness and thrives in contradiction. And that’s precisely what makes it addictive. On this trip, I stayed in two of the city's most atmospheric stays, each offering a distinct view of Naples’ creative soul.
Where to Stay and Why
Atelier Inès Arts & Suites – An artist’s residence in the Sanità district, filled with art, sculptures, and design references. The garden is dreamy, and the breakfast feels like a private invitation to someone’s Neapolitan home.
Casa D’Anna ai Cristallini – Intimate and refined, this guesthouse in the Sanità district offers serenity behind grand wooden doors. With just a few rooms and a quietly intellectual feel, it’s ideal for travellers who want to live, not just stay, in Naples.
Coffee Culture – Neapolitan Style
A visit to Naples means tasting coffee the Neapolitan way: strong, short, and always with a story.
Try:
Don Café Street Art Coffee – Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, 39
Scotto Jonno – Inside Galleria Principe di Napoli
Barrio Botanico – Half café, half jungle
Gran Caffè Gambrinus – Historic and opulent
Caffè Sansone, Scaturchio, Luminist Café & Bistrot, and The Florist (near the Botanical Gardens)
Best Restaurants
Trattoria da Nennella – Loud, lively and unforgettable
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – Pizza as it should be
Mimì alla Ferrovia – For pasta e patate, genovese, and Neapolitan classics
Tandem – Known for their ragù
La Cantinella – Elegant, old-world glamour
Ambasciatori Club Restaurant – Dinner with live performance
For street food:
Di Matteo – Try the frittatina or pizza a portafoglio
Capparelli & Attanasio – For the city’s best baba and sfogliatella
Mattozzi – Classic trattoria near the centre
Cantuccio di Nerano – A good outpost if you're venturing further out
Places to Visit
Palazzo Spagnuolo (Sanità district)
Dracula’s Grave – Inside Chiostro di Santa Maria la Nova
San Giovanni in Carbonara – Gothic splendour
Cristo Velato, Galleria Umberto I, and Piazza del Plebiscito
Chiaia District – For a quieter, stylish neighbourhood stroll
Palazzo Reale, Via Toledo, and Galleria d’Italia(featuring Andy Warhol)
Filangieri Museum on Via Duomo – Located in the regal Palazzo Como
Palazzo Manna Juolo and the Hidden Baroque Garden
Bars to Visit
Nick & Nora, BA Bar House, Maison Toledo, Scotto Jonno, La Fesseria, Donna Romita – each one offers its own twist on Naples nightlife
Day Trips
Pompeii – An hour by train and still one of the most humbling sites in Italy.
Final Word
From the soothing waters of Ischia to Sorrento’s romantic rooftops and Naples’ messy magnificence, this journey reminded me that beauty isn’t always obvious. Sometimes it’s wild. Sometimes it’s loud. But if you look closely—and saunter—you’ll find it in the details.
Words by Jheanelle Feanny
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