A Cut Above: Inside Hawksmoor Spitalfields

Lifestyle

Often regarded as an institution for steak since its 2006 launch, Hawksmoor was founded by two friends united by a shared appreciation for British carnivorous fare. Two decades on, it remains quietly assured within London’s dining landscape, never chasing attention, yet never out of it.

At a time where many London establishments quietly shutter their doors, Hawksmoor has continued its steady stride. The menu has seen remarkably few changes over the years, a decision that feels less like resistance and more like quiet confidence. It knows what it does well, good quality produce and ingredients, a reinvention of classic British dishes, and sees little reason to complicate it.

The clientele reflects this consistency. Some arrive to broker business deals over dry-aged cuts, others settle in for the ritual of a Sunday lunch, while many, ourselves included, come simply to indulge an insatiable appetite for beef. It’s a space that doesn’t demand attention, but earns it, plate by plate.

Childhood friends and founders of Hawksmoor Willl Beckett & Huw Gott

It’s been a minute since we visited the flagship Shoreditch residence, and the wait was worth it. A stone’s throw from Liverpool Street, the East-End Spitalfields location is where the magic began (in 2006), later expanding into ten further UK locations before becoming a global affair, with restaurants now in Dublin, New York and Chicago, alongside whispers of a fifteenth location arriving in Boston by the end of 2026.

The interiors are unchanged; the venue still provides a sexy, stripped-back neogothic aesthetic with a touch of industrialism, similar to those seen behind the commons chambers. The message is clear upon arrival: your dining experience is not only high "steaks" but parliamentary. Politics aside, we sat down while our knowledgeable host, Daria, guided us through the menu, as, like many, it's always a tough choice when everything on the menu is a winner.

We began with a British classic in the form of a 2019 Rathfinny Brut. Those in the know understand that this year is considered one of the vineyard’s best, shaped by the UK heatwave that summer. With wine, there is always something romantic about transporting yourself back to the year it was made, and for us, 2019 was filled with laughter, travel and many memorable moments.

Nostalgia aside, our first entrée arrived fresh from the coast of Jersey in the form of oysters: hearty, briny and deeply satisfying. Next came lightly seared scallops, prepared on a single leaf of tarragon, bathed in Hawksmoor’s infamous garlic butter, topped with toasted breadcrumbs and presented back on the shell. The flavours unfold gradually, each element balancing the next without overpowering the dish. The tarragon lingers delicately on the finish, adding an unexpected depth that elevates the entire plate.

We'll certainly be returning for a brunch of Rathfinny and oysters in the near future, particularly as there still feels to be a shortage of standout spots in the city for this kind of occasion.

We battled to resist trying a new addition to the menu: the pork belly. Cooked twice, the dish incorporates more than 26 ingredients and is slowly glazed throughout the cooking process, resulting in layers of deep, rich flavour.

It accompanies perhaps one of the best coleslaws we have tasted; this dish is far more refined than the overly creamy versions often found elsewhere. Hawksmoor's interpretation feels deliberately gourmet, with coriander adding a gentle hit while fennel seeds bring an unexpected layer of elevation. Together, the freshness of the slaw cuts perfectly through the richness of the pork, balancing a dish that many restaurants often struggle to execute with finesse.

Now for the reason we came: the steak. With so much choice, from fillet to chateaubriand, our attention was drawn to a classic recently reintroduced to the menu. Marking Hawksmoor’s 20th anniversary and celebrating its return since 2006, we opted for a cut from the Longhorn menu. This is the type of cattle that helped catapult their early success upon opening; however, after a shortage of this breed, the Shorthorn, known for its marbling and tenderness, became a mouthwatering staple in its own right. The Longhorn, by contrast, is known for its depth of flavour and complex profile, and we were pleased to see its return. Be quick, though: when it is gone, it is truly gone, as per policy.

Our hearty prime rib arrived alongside the establishment's infamous creamed spinach, because no one does it quite like Hawksmoor. The dish felt generous and deeply satisfying, the kind of plate that lands with weight and quiet confidence.

We paired our steak with a structured, powerful Barolo from the Piedmont region, its depth cutting beautifully through the richness of the beef. For something more local and delicate, the Pinot Noir from Danbury offers a softer, more restrained expression.

And for those with something special tucked away at home, the Monday night corkage policy invites you to bring your own bottle for £5, adding a personal layer to the experience without overcomplicating it.

Despite being a heavier cut of beef, it remained remarkably tender with a distinct earthy depth. Accompanied by bone marrow stuffed with caramelised onions and a bulb of roasted garlic that melted at the slightest touch, the dish was a nod to British excellence. A decadent addition to the menu, this rich plate is ideal for sharing and for those who enjoy similar cuts such as a tomahawk. The fat is minimal, melting effortlessly on the palate.

No meal this refined would feel complete without dessert, and nothing quite screams nostalgia like a good old-fashioned sticky toffee pudding.

What makes the experience at Hawksmoor so endearing is not just the quality of the food, but the consistency, confidence, and care taken by their staff behind every plate. It remains a restaurant that understands exactly what it is, delivering a dining experience that feels undisputed, considered and deeply satisfying from start to finish. 

Special thanks to the Hawksmoor team (Daria, Ester, Jennifer, Aubrey and Sam) on the day for creating such a memorable experience.

For more information, visit HERE.

Hawksmoor Spitalfields

Address: 157A Commercial St, London E1 6BJ

Phone: 020 7426 4850

Words by Jheanelle Feanny