The collections you need to know about at LFW: Men's AW20
Whilst most of us were feeling the slump of the post-Christmas celebrations, we got straight to business attending the busiest January of the year, in the form of London Fashion Week: Men's. Hosted at East London's Truman Brewery and celebrating its 15th season, LFW: Men's brought us a celebration of British fashion, and paved the way for some new emerging talent, presenting their collections for the first time.
From sunset to sunrise, the cyclical nature of every day seems infinite and yet each day itself so finite. It is this idea of daily renewal which forms the basis of Qasimi’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection. Every sun has to set – to rise again. Qasimi bought us tailored boiler suits engulfed in print and a 90's grunge revival.
With a purposeful air of nostalgia throughout the collection, Hizami presented his take on the famed cable knit sweaters he so often saw and wore growing up. In addition, plaid checks seamed throughout the collection, alongside mixed textures. These were reminiscent of school uniform days - bringing back details that have been vividly rooted in his memory.
Band of Outsiders
Mixing earth tones with pops of colour Band of outsiders take us camping this season with a collection inspired by childhood memories and trips to the forest with family and friends. Classic tailoring is themed throughout.
Chalayan brings us print for days with strong silhouettes. The collection was drawn from observation and exploration of different cultures. The new collection includes cobranded pieces with furniture company Boloni. The designer's message is clear with the focus on how we can be shaped by the environment around us, which can mould our view of the world and the attire we choose to wear.
Astrid Andersen looks back at her childhood family home and past memories for Autumn/Winter 2020. For this season, colours are a re-interpretation of the rose printed upholstery; seam-sealed signature tracksuits in subtle pink camouflage and a psychedelic reworking of 1970’s florals, fine jacquard zebra cuts across subtle pinks while florals are disarmingly vibrant. Astrid brings vibrancy with burnt orange furs which are sustainably sourced and certified by Saga Fur ensuring it remains at the forefront of industry standards.
Robyn Lynch celebrates her first stand-alone presentation with a collection that creates narrative through cut, contrast, and silhouette. For autumn/winter 2020, ROBYN spent time on Inis Oirr, an Irish island with a population of 260. There, she saw how clothing connects generations, a splicing of styles that brings together a community.
This season Art School collaborated with British artist Maggi Hambling on several pieces, which use layers of black fabric like pale paint. In turn, each layer consists of recycled material from previous seasons to connect and acknowledge the importance of the past and the biography of material.
This season Bethany Williams teamed up with the Magpie Project charity (which supports women and children in crisis) to listen to mothers and children facing homelessness. From working closely with the children of Magpie, garment construction and craft techniques from children’s clothing has shaped this collection. This collection celebrates motherhood, childhood, sisterhood, and the family we choose, highlighting the importance of this powerful bond. The show was dedicated to giving a community that is marginalised and silenced on a daily basis, a platform and voice to share their story.